Summer Tree Care Tips

Practical ways to support tree health during heat, drought, storms, and other summer stresses.

Why Summer Tree Care Matters

Summer is an important period in a tree’s annual growth cycle. Leaves are actively producing energy, roots continue to grow when soil conditions are favorable, and trees must maintain enough water to support their canopies during periods of heat and limited rainfall.

Healthy, established trees are often capable of tolerating normal seasonal changes without intensive care. However, prolonged drought, high temperatures, compacted soil, restricted rooting space, construction activity, insect feeding, disease pressure, and other environmental conditions may increase stress.

Summer tree care should focus on supporting the tree’s existing biological processes rather than trying to force additional growth. Thoughtful watering, protecting the root zone, maintaining appropriate mulch, monitoring for changes, and understanding site conditions can help support long-term tree health and resilience.

Water Deeply Rather Than Frequently

During dry periods, supplemental watering may be beneficial—particularly for newly planted trees, trees growing in disturbed or compacted soils, and established trees experiencing prolonged drought.

Frequent, shallow watering may wet only the uppermost layer of soil and encourage roots to remain close to the surface. Deep watering allows moisture to move farther into the root zone, where it may remain available longer.

When watering trees:

  • Apply water slowly enough that it can soak into the soil rather than run off

  • Water across a broad portion of the root zone—not only beside the trunk

  • Allow time for moisture to move into the soil

  • Adjust watering frequency based on rainfall, temperature, soil type, drainage, and tree condition

  • Check soil moisture before assuming additional water is needed

Tree roots may extend well beyond the edge of the canopy. Although watering the entire root system may not be practical, applying water across a broad area beneath and beyond the canopy is generally more beneficial than concentrating water immediately around the trunk.

The amount and frequency of watering should be based on actual site conditions. Sandy soils may drain quickly and require different management than heavier soils, while compacted soils may absorb water slowly or allow it to run across the surface.

Newly Planted Trees Need Additional Attention

Newly planted trees generally require more frequent monitoring than established trees because much of their root system remains within the original root ball or recently disturbed planting area.

During the first several growing seasons:

  • Check soil moisture regularly

  • Water slowly and deeply when needed

  • Avoid allowing the root ball to become excessively dry

  • Avoid keeping the soil continuously saturated

  • Maintain an appropriate mulch layer

  • Keep mulch away from direct contact with the trunk

  • Monitor for wilting, leaf scorch, premature leaf drop, or reduced growth

Rainfall alone may not always provide adequate moisture to the root ball. Dense foliage, surrounding vegetation, compacted soil, or differences between the root-ball soil and surrounding soil may affect how water reaches and moves through the planting area.

Newly planted trees can also be damaged by excessive watering. Soil that remains saturated may contain less oxygen, potentially limiting healthy root function. The goal is consistent, appropriate soil moisture—not constantly wet soil.

Check the Soil Before Adding More Water

Wilting, curling leaves, browning leaf margins, or premature leaf drop may be associated with drought stress, but similar symptoms can also occur when soils remain excessively wet or when roots are damaged or unable to function properly.

Before increasing irrigation, check the soil beneath the surface.

Consider:

  • Is the soil dry several inches below the surface?

  • Is water soaking into the soil or running away from the tree?

  • Does the soil remain wet for an extended period after rainfall?

  • Has drainage around the tree recently changed?

  • Has construction, grading, trenching, or soil compaction occurred?

  • Is the tree growing in a restricted or heavily altered root zone?

Adding more water to already saturated soil may increase root stress. Understanding existing soil conditions is more useful than watering according to a fixed schedule.

Protect the Root Zone

Many summer tree problems begin below ground. Tree roots require adequate moisture, oxygen, pore space, and suitable soil conditions to function effectively.

Activities that compact or disturb the soil may reduce the movement of air and water through the root zone. Root damage may not produce immediate symptoms, and changes in canopy health may become visible months or even years after the original disturbance.

Whenever possible:

  • Keep vehicles and heavy equipment away from the root zone

  • Avoid repeatedly parking beneath mature trees

  • Limit unnecessary foot traffic over exposed or compacted soil

  • Avoid trenching through major portions of the root system

  • Do not raise or lower the soil grade around established trees without professional guidance

  • Protect trees and their root zones during construction projects

  • Avoid storing soil, stone, equipment, or building materials beneath tree canopies

The root system often extends well beyond the edge of the canopy. Protecting only the area immediately surrounding the trunk may leave much of the active root zone vulnerable to disturbance.

Mulch Can Help—When It Is Applied Correctly

An appropriate layer of organic mulch may help moderate soil temperature, reduce evaporation, limit competition from turfgrass, protect the soil surface, and gradually contribute organic matter as it decomposes.

For many landscape trees:

  • Apply mulch in a broad area when possible

  • Maintain a moderate layer rather than continually adding new mulch

  • Keep mulch away from direct contact with the trunk

  • Extend mulch outward instead of piling it upward

  • Avoid burying the root flare

  • Remove or redistribute excessive mulch when needed

Mulch should resemble a broad, relatively flat layer—not a mound or “volcano” against the trunk.

Excessive mulch may retain moisture against the bark, conceal the root flare, encourage roots to grow into the mulch layer, and make it more difficult to observe conditions at the base of the tree.

For more information, see: Mulching Done Right.

Avoid Unnecessary Summer Pruning

Routine pruning is generally best planned according to the tree species, condition, age, and management objective. Removing live foliage during summer also removes some of the tree’s ability to produce energy.

Pruning may still be appropriate when:

  • Broken or hanging branches are present

  • Dead branches create a potential safety concern

  • Branches interfere with necessary access or visibility

  • Storm damage requires corrective work

  • A specific pruning objective has been identified

Avoid removing large amounts of healthy foliage without a clear reason. Excessive pruning may increase stress, alter tree structure, and encourage undesirable sprout growth.

For oak trees in Michigan, avoid pruning from May through November whenever possible. Wounds created during this period may increase the risk of oak wilt transmission. If an oak is accidentally wounded during the growing season, the wound should be addressed immediately using current oak wilt prevention recommendations.

Be Thoughtful About Summer Fertilization and Soil Treatments

A tree that appears stressed does not automatically need fertilizer. Yellowing foliage, reduced growth, canopy thinning, or premature leaf drop may be associated with many factors, including drought, excessive soil moisture, root damage, compaction, poor drainage, insects, disease, or other environmental conditions.

Applying nutrients without understanding the underlying cause may not address the actual problem. In some situations, encouraging additional aboveground growth while the root system is under stress may be counterproductive.

However, not all soil treatments are the same.

When appropriate for the tree and site, UFT’s Deep Root Feeding program may be used during summer to support the root-zone environment rather than simply stimulate rapid aboveground growth. The treatment is designed to improve soil conditions and support moisture and nutrient retention through a blend that includes organic matter, biochar, humates, beneficial biological components, and carefully selected nutrients.

Biochar and organic soil amendments may help improve soil structure and moisture retention, while humates and beneficial biological components support nutrient cycling and overall soil function. These improvements do not replace adequate watering during drought, but they may help create a more supportive root-zone environment and improve a tree’s long-term ability to tolerate environmental stress.

The appropriate treatment depends on the tree, soil conditions, existing moisture, site limitations, and the severity of drought stress. A tree experiencing severe water stress may need moisture management and evaluation before any soil amendment or nutrient application is considered.

Monitor for Changes in the Canopy

Trees often show signs of stress before the underlying cause is fully understood. Summer is a useful time to observe foliage, canopy density, branch growth, and changes in overall appearance.

Watch for:

  • Thinning or uneven foliage

  • Increasing numbers of dead branches

  • Smaller-than-normal leaves

  • Reduced shoot growth

  • Yellow, pale, scorched, or unusually discolored foliage

  • Wilting or curling leaves

  • Premature fall color

  • Early leaf drop

  • One portion of the canopy declining before the rest

  • Noticeable differences between a tree and nearby trees of the same species

A single symptom does not necessarily identify a specific problem. Similar symptoms may result from very different causes, and multiple stress factors may affect a tree at the same time.

Comparing the tree with photographs from previous years may help reveal gradual changes that are difficult to recognize when the tree is viewed every day.

Look at More Than the Leaves

The canopy is only one part of the tree. Changes in the trunk, root flare, surrounding soil, and broader landscape may provide important information.

Periodically look for:

  • New cracks or areas of damaged bark

  • Loose, peeling, or missing bark

  • Open wounds or cavities

  • Fungal growth on the trunk, roots, or near the base of the tree

  • Soil or mulch piled against the trunk

  • A trunk that enters the ground like a straight pole

  • Girdling or circling roots

  • Changes in soil grade

  • Recent construction or excavation

  • New drainage patterns or standing water

  • Repeated vehicle or equipment traffic near the tree

Some tree-health concerns develop gradually. Looking at the entire tree and its growing environment may provide more useful information than focusing only on a single leaf or branch.

Watch for Insects and Disease—But Identify the Cause Before Treating

Summer is an active period for many insects and diseases. However, the presence of an insect, leaf spot, or unusual growth does not automatically mean treatment is necessary.

Many insects are harmless or beneficial, and some leaf conditions are primarily cosmetic. Other pests and diseases may require monitoring, preventive management, or treatment when they threaten tree health.

Before treating:

  • Identify the tree species

  • Identify the insect, disease, or other potential cause

  • Consider the extent and severity of the symptoms

  • Evaluate the overall health and condition of the tree

  • Determine whether treatment is necessary and appropriately timed

  • Consider whether environmental stress may be contributing to the problem

Correct identification and timing are important. A treatment applied after the effective management window may provide little benefit, even when the diagnosis is correct.

Be Careful Around Trees During Lawn Maintenance

Some of the most common injuries to landscape trees are caused by lawn equipment.

Repeated contact from mowers and string trimmers may damage bark and the living tissues immediately beneath it. Damage near the base of the tree may interfere with the movement of water, nutrients, and energy between the roots and canopy.

To reduce the risk of injury:

  • Keep mower decks and wheels away from the trunk

  • Avoid using string trimmers directly beside tree bark

  • Maintain an appropriate mulch area around the tree

  • Avoid installing edging that cuts through major roots

  • Do not attach signs, wires, chains, or other objects to the trunk

A broad mulch area can reduce competition from turfgrass while also creating separation between lawn equipment and the tree.

Prepare Trees for Summer Storms

Thunderstorms, high winds, and heavy rainfall may reveal structural concerns that were previously difficult to recognize.

Before severe weather occurs, look for:

  • Dead or hanging branches

  • Cracked or split branch unions

  • Large branches extending over homes, driveways, roads, or frequently occupied areas

  • Cavities or visible decay

  • Previous branch failures

  • Significant changes in tree lean

  • Root-plate movement or soil lifting near the base

  • Large fungal growth associated with the trunk or roots

The presence of one feature does not automatically mean a tree is unsafe. Tree risk depends on the likelihood of failure, the likelihood of impact, potential consequences, site use, and the condition of the tree.

Trees with significant structural concerns—or trees located near frequently occupied areas—may benefit from a professional tree-risk assessment.

Avoid Making Major Decisions Immediately After a Storm

Storm-damaged trees can appear severe immediately after an event, but not every damaged tree requires removal.

Before making a decision, consider:

  • Which branches were damaged?

  • How much of the canopy remains?

  • Was the main trunk affected?

  • Are major structural roots damaged?

  • Has the tree shifted or partially uprooted?

  • Are broken branches suspended above people or property?

  • Can corrective pruning reasonably restore an acceptable structure?

Some trees can recover with appropriate pruning and continued monitoring. Others may have damage that significantly affects long-term structure or safety.

Avoid attempting to remove large, suspended, split, or storm-loaded branches without appropriate equipment and training. Storm-damaged trees may contain significant stored energy and can be unpredictable.

What Property Owners Can Do This Summer

A simple summer tree-care routine may include:

  • Monitor rainfall and soil moisture

  • Water deeply during extended dry periods when appropriate

  • Give newly planted trees additional attention

  • Maintain a broad, moderate mulch layer

  • Keep mulch away from tree trunks

  • Protect root zones from vehicles, equipment, and construction activity

  • Avoid unnecessary pruning

  • Avoid pruning oak trees from May through November

  • Watch for changes in foliage, canopy density, bark, and annual growth

  • Look for dead, broken, or hanging branches

  • Avoid damaging trunks with mowers and string trimmers

  • Identify insects or diseases before considering treatment

  • Photograph important trees periodically to track gradual changes

  • Seek professional guidance when symptoms continue to worsen or structural concerns are present

Consistent observation is often more valuable than reacting to a single symptom.

When Professional Evaluation Is Useful

A professional evaluation may be appropriate when:

  • Canopy thinning or branch dieback continues to increase

  • Leaves wilt, discolor, or drop prematurely without a clear cause

  • Multiple parts of the tree are affected

  • The tree has experienced construction, grading, trenching, or root disturbance

  • Soil drainage or moisture conditions have changed

  • Large branches are dead, cracked, or damaged

  • Decay, cavities, or fungal growth are present

  • The root flare is buried or damaged

  • A treatment is being considered without a clear diagnosis

  • A valuable tree is showing signs of decline

  • The tree is located near a home, driveway, road, play area, or other frequently occupied space

An arborist can evaluate the tree together with its growing environment and consider its species, condition, site history, soil conditions, symptoms, structural features, and potential contributing factors.

A Long-Term Approach to Summer Tree Health

Summer tree care is not about responding to every yellow leaf or applying a treatment simply because the weather is hot.

Trees are long-lived organisms, and their condition reflects the interaction of roots, soil, water, weather, structure, insects, disease, past disturbance, and long-term management.

Supporting tree health often begins with protecting the root zone, maintaining appropriate soil moisture, observing changes over time, and understanding the cause of a problem before deciding how to respond.

The goal is not simply to help a tree look better during one growing season. It is to support the soil, roots, structure, and growing environment that influence the tree’s health for years to come.

Sources & Further Reading

This article reflects established arboricultural principles and professional field experience. For additional information, explore educational resources from:

  • International Society of Arboriculture — Tree Owner Resources

  • Michigan State University Extension — Trees and Forests

  • University of Minnesota Extension — Trees and Shrubs

  • Michigan Oak Wilt Coalition — Oak Wilt Prevention Resources

HEALTHY SOIL. | STRONGER TREES. | LASTING LANDSCAPES

Questions about summer tree care, drought stress, soil health, or changes in one of your trees? UFT Tree Care Specialists provides science-based tree diagnostics, consulting, soil-focused care, and plant health care throughout Northern Michigan.

ufttree.care • ben@ufttree.care • 231-409-0442

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